Kenya AA Auction Lot 661 -Mbaranga

Sweet Maria's Coffee

We are really proud of our Kenyas, mainly because the ones we stock represent over 150-200 true Auction Lot Kenyas we cupped this year. But some of our Kenyas are really too potent, too over the top, for some people's palates. I definitely won’t apologize for stocking potent coffees... but there are times in cupping Kenyas when you wonder if you have started cupping more for potency than for subtler cup qualities. The brash Kenyas can overshadow a real gem than may not broadcast its cup quality to an impatient cupper, but will emerge over time as a charming, seductive cup. It would be funny if I followed this speel up with saying the Mbaranga is just an obnoxious over-the-top Kenya cup profile. But actually it is the perfect example of a low-toned Kenya, one that does not have the bracing acidity, but has all the sweet aromas, fruit, mild acidity, depth and balance. At a City+/Full City roast I had an initial impression of sweet blueberry that was unmistakably clear on the palate. This is strikingly different than the earthy-tinged blueberry found in a great Harar - it's more like the essence of blueberry; clean, clear and sweet. There are mild citrus aromas too, and as the cup cools a distinct clove and anise flavor emerges in the finish. This is accessible Kenya, good drinkin' Kenya, a cup with spine, but not too assertive in the top end of the flavor profile to alienate those who dislike the acidic bite. It's a very dense seed too and takes a wider range of roasts than other lots we have this year, without falling off in flavor. Another interesting aspect of Mbaranga: straight, single-origin Mbaranga espresso. Yes, this intensifies the brighter, acidic parts of the cup (and would be impossible with a really citric espresso) but try a Full City Mbaranga shot. Amazing aromatics, sweet tarry liquor-like body, and dry, bracing brightness like a twist of orange peel and cranberry. It's amazing. (BTW: I prefer a quicker extraction time, 18-20 secs...this is not good over-extracted).

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